Power Supply Unit (PSU)
All the PS3 models (except early FAT, see table below) have a built in universal power supply, and supports multivoltage. What this means is that even though a specific voltage is written on the outside of the PS3, the PS3 can actually be plugged into any voltage anywhere in the world and work (as long as you have the correct cable). Therefore, if you opened up the PS3, the supported voltages should be stated (on the power supply) as 100V-240V, which is the range for all power outlets in the world.
Note: Starting since CECH-4000 series an external powersupply is used.
Don't use an external transformer! Use only a passive travelplug, quote from the PS3 manuals:
- Do not connect the AC power cord to a voltage transformer or inverter. Converting the AC power cord to a voltage transformer for overseas travel or use in an autmobile may cause heat to build up in the system and may cause burns or a malfunction.
PSU Model @ SKU compatiblity
Here is a sample of some power supply model numbers:
|Model||Part no.||Power Input (AC)||Power Output (DC)||Pins||Weight||Found In||Compatibility|
|ZSSR5391A||1-474-036-11||100V-240V 6.0A 50/60Hz||12V 32A||5V 3A||5||815g||CECHAxx, CECHBxx||A B|
|APS-226||1-474-037-11||100V-240V 4.8-2.0A 50/60Hz||12V 32A||5V 3A||5||770g||CECHAxx, CECHExx||A B E|
|APS-227||1-474-046-11||220V-240V 2.2A 50/60Hz||12V 32A||5V 3A||5||900g||CECHCxx||C|
|APS-231||1-474-073-11||100V-240V 3.5-1.5A 50/60Hz||12V 23.5A||5V .6A||5||700g||CECHGxx||A B E G|
|LSEB1226B1||1-474-074-11||220V-240V 1.7-1.6A 50/60Hz||12V 23.5A||5V .6A||5||700g||CECHGxx||A B E G|
|LSEB1254A1||220V-240V 1.7-1.6A 50/60Hz||12V 23.5A||5V .6A||5||700g||CECHGxx||A B E G|
|EADP-300AB||100V-240V 3.6-1.5A 50/60Hz||12V 23.5A||5V .6A||3||CECHHxx||H|
|100V-240V||12V 23.5A||5V .6A||4||CECHKxx||H K|
|100V-240V 3.3-1.4A 50/60Hz||12V 21.5A||5V .6A||3||CECHJxx, CECHKxx||H K (Some L)|
|100V-240V 3.3-1.4A 50/60Hz||12V 21A||5.5V .9A||4||CECHLxx||L P|
|EADP-260BB||1-474-129-11||100V-240V 3.3-1.4A 50/60Hz||12V 21A||5.5V .9A||4||600g|
|100V-240V 2.7-1.2A 50/60Hz||12V 18A||5.5V .9A||4||CECH-20xx||20xx|
|1-474-217-12||100V-240V 2.6-1.0A 50/60Hz||12V 16A||5.5V .9A||4||415g|| CECH-21xx
|21xx, 25xx, ?|
|100V-240V 2.5-1.1A 50/60Hz||12V 16A||5.5V .9A||4||CECH-25xx||25xx, 30xx (With force)|
|EADP-A85AB||100V-240V 2.1-0.8A 50/60Hz||12V 13A||5.5V .9A||4||CECH-30xx|
|APS-306||1-474-339-11||100V-240V 2.0-0.9A 50/60Hz||12V 13A||5.5V .9A||4||CECH-30xx|
|ADP-160AR||1-474-400-11||100V-240V 2.1-0.8A 50/60Hz||12V 13A||5.5V .9A||-||CECH-40xx||CECH-40xx|
|APS-330||100V-240V 2.3-0.8A 50/60Hz||12V 13A||5.5V .9A||-||CECH-40xx||CECH-40xx|
As seen from the above chart, the PS3 takes 100V-240V AC (with exception of APS-227, LSEB1226B1 and LSEB1254A1) at various amps (A) from your power socket, and converts this to two DC (Direct Current) voltages of 12V, and 5V (or 5.5V for later PS3 models) at various amps. The earliest batch of PS3 had the ZSSR5391A power supply, which as you can see in the above table draws a lot of amps from your power outlet. You can replace it with newer compatible power supply models that draw less power, and also produce less heat. Less heat means less bending of the motherboard, less cracking of the solder, less fan noise, lower electricity bills, and no "Yellow Light of Death." In fact, for most models of the PS3, you can find a better power supply to replace the original. One of the main compatibility criteria is the number of pins on the power supply. It must match the number of pins on your connector cable. The second criteria is to try to find the lowest input amp and lowest output amp that works with your PS3 model (for APS models, this means the higher the model number, the better). WARNING: if you decide to replace your power supply, you do it at your own risk! If you don't know what you are doing, you may fry your motherboard.
- note: there is strong criticism to above statement, see Talk:Power Supply
For those that are not aware: Volts * Amps = Total Watts used. You are billed for total watts used over time by your local power provider.
A sample breakdown of the CECHJxx and later models finds a 261W Delta EADP-260AB power supply. It is fanless and all capacitors inside are made by Japanese companies: Chemi-Con, Rubycon, and Nichicon.
Note that for PS3 Slim models (CECH-20xx), there is no ground wiring support.
Modification / Repair
Externalising the PSU
This is very possible and is done by a lot of people whom think that having the PSU outside of the PS3 will prevent the YLOD.
However it is more useful when testing a stripped PS3 or confirming if the PSU is faulty etc. To the left is an image of a CECH-30xx externally wired to a CECH-21xx PSU in order to test if the original PSU was faulty and if the older model PSU would even power up the console.
The way this is done is very simple, get a cable with a moderately thick AWG (Same thickness as a 110v/220v power cable) and strip off the shielding. This exposes the positive and negative cables, from here simply strip off the shielding of the two and twist the ends. Appropriately plug the correct positive & negative into the PSU and wrap the other positive & negative end on the poles of the PS3 (If you get the positive/negative the wrong way around the console will have a red standby light but will not power on).
Note on permanent install: Highly suggested to purchase plugs and sockets that will fit with the PSU and motherboard connection and soldering them onto the power cable that was created. Remember that normally inside the console the main fan (on CPU/GPU) also gave the PSU a slight airflow, so you might want to add a fan also (although it wont have to run fast, its just to make sure heat does not accumulate).
The above images are for demonstration purposes only!
Please remember the obvious: Check with a multimeter to find which is positive and which is negative!
Also ensure the connections are solid and or have no dry joints when soldering. All of this also applies when extending the white power cable from the PSU to the motherboard.
F101 (T8AH AC250V)
Relais for 12V line
PFC +B ADJ (RV301)
next to relais RY101 connected to 14pin IC303 "LM339DG # PBB636"
<jordosaxman> RV301 has 3 points, 1 of them goes to the solder point, one goes to the tiny resistor above it labeled 153 <jordosaxman> the third point is buried, no trace points on the top side, must go to the bottom <jordosaxman> yeah it looks like RV301 hits a resistor and then goes to pin 3 of IC303
OCP ADJ (RV302)
Over Current Protection Adjustment (dont mess with this one)
Connected to 16pin IC305 "6j3y # cxa8038a"
Fmin ADJ (RV303)
next to 16pin IC305 "6j3y # cxa8038a"
PFC Freq ADJ (RV304)
Connected to 16pin IC301 "uc3854dw # 6bm14ew"
16pin IC301 "uc3854dw # 6bm14ew"
14pin IC303 "LM339DG # PBB636"
16pin IC305 "6j3y # cxa8038a"
5vsb reg "NEC"
5VSB latch "NEC"